Costa Rica has become a bit of a second home to me over the last few years, and last week, I was talking to a friend there about getting together when I go back next time. "It's madness here right now," she said, and I wondered what the heck she was talking about. I half expected her to say something about Donald Trump because I've just learned to brace myself for that when talking to other people, but then I realized I was talking to someone from a country where half the citizens aren't filled with blind range because a guy they didn't vote for won an election. But I digress.
What she was talking about was the Poás Volcano, which has been active since late 2024, putting Observatorio Vulcanológico y Sismológico de Costa Rica (or Volcanological and Seismological Observatory of Costa Rica) (or better yet, OVSICORI) officials on high alert. On April 21, the volcano erupted, sending a column of ash 6,500 feet above the crater. Another ash plume soared 15,000 feet above the crater and could be seen from the country's capital, San Jose. Multiple eruptions have been recorded since, according to The Watchers.
Poás sits about 35 miles north of San Jose, and the area is popular with tourists. According to The Watchers article from Friday, "A Red Alert was issued for Poás Volcano National Park in Costa Rica on Wednesday, April 23, 2025... ashfall was reported in several surrounding areas, prompting Orange Alerts in Grecia and Sarchí, and Yellow Alerts in Alajuela, Poás, Naranjo, Río Cuarto, and Zarcero due to increased volcanic hazards."
Here's what that means exactly:
Due to the red alert, Poás Volcano National Park is now closed to the public. Authorities have issued warnings about extreme dangers, including ballistic blocks, toxic gas emissions, and heavy ash accumulation that could damage structures and impede rescue efforts. SINAC has halted all park access and indefinitely shut down roads and facilities, urging the public to respect the closure.
In areas under orange alert, particularly in Sarchí’s Toro Amarillo district, the risk of lahars is a growing concern. Rainfall could send significant ash and debris down local rivers like Desagüe, Anono, Gorrión, and Agrio, endangering nearby communities. Residents are advised to avoid these rivers and refrain from using the water until conditions improve.
In the yellow-alert zones, both locals and tourists should prepare for occasional ashfall and fluctuating gas concentrations, particularly as winds change direction. Health experts recommend that individuals, especially those with respiratory issues, wear masks (preferably N95) and seal windows and doors with damp cloths. People should also limit outdoor activities. Local medical facilities have been alerted to expect an increase in patients experiencing respiratory issues due to ash exposure.
Tourism, especially from the United States and Canada, is such a big part of the economy in Costa Rica, and I absolutely hate that for the people who live, work, and own businesses in this area. By far, it's not the only tourist hotspot in the country; it's not even the only volcano that is popular with visitors, but tourism is still extremely important for the local economy. My heart breaks for the people who work at the park or own the small hotels, shops, sodas, and restaurants that surround it.
The Tico Times reports that, "According to the Poás Volcano Chamber of Tourism, which represents nearly 60 businesses in lodging, recreation, and food services, local establishments have reported income drops ranging from 40% to 67%. The closure of Poás Volcano National Park, a major attraction drawing approximately 200,000 visitors annually, has exacerbated the situation."
It added, "The economic ripple effects extend beyond tourism. With fewer customers, businesses are purchasing less from local suppliers, impacting small-scale producers of fruits, dairy, and other goods. Local grocery stores, supermarkets, and transportation providers, who typically serve international tour groups, are also struggling."
The timing makes its even worse. April is typically the last month of full-swing tourist season in Costa Rica before the rainy season hits, and Easter and Semana Santa — the country's Holy Week — are some of the busiest times of the year for small businesses that welcome locals and tourists alike.
And while researching the topic, I found that many are warning people not to travel to Costa Rica at all due to the situation, particularly in Europe. Personally, I think that's a bit of an overreaction. First, yes, you should follow any government-issued advisories, whether they come from Costa Rica or your own country (so far, I don't think the United States has issued any). Second, yes, unfortunately, it's probably best to avoid the area where the volcano is located right now. Third, if you have any sort of heart, lung, or breathing issues, you may even want to check with your doctor before making the trip.
Related: Did You Hear About the Terrible Thing Ivanka Trump Did?
But the volcano and the surrounding areas mentioned in the official alerts are only a small part of the center of the country, and depending on where you want to go, they're easily avoided. They're far from the pristine beaches and jungles. And as I said, Poás isn't the only volcano you can visit in Costa Rica — I think the Arenal Volcano (which is pictured in the photo at the top of this article, which I took) may even be the bigger tourist attraction, and the Arenal and La Fortuna area are loads of fun. I promise you won't be missing out if you have to skip Poás.
So don't cancel your trip, or if you're on the fence, book it. And I say this as someone who feels like the country is already too filled with gringos. I'm kidding. Sort of. I know how much the country depends on our tourism dollars, and I know the recovery from COVID was long and hard. I watched a tour operator beam with pride once when he explained how happy he was that people from the rest of North America and Europe were returning to visit.
And if you don't believe me, take the first daughter's word for it. Ivanka Trump spent Holy Week there herself and survived just fine. I'm not sure where all she visited, but from her pictures, it looked like she spent some time in the Santa Teresa area, which is a vibrant little coastal town that I also recommend.
